Hulme CommUNITY
Viraj Mendis campaign
Culture
We received this story and photography from from Richard W..., below is what he wrote and we feel it needs to be posted on this page, thanks Richard for allowing us to share your history of living in Hulme...............
- Richard W... ---
Greetings Hulmeoids, I lived at 336 Charles Barry Crescent from 1979 - 1984, from my bedroom window I could see the city centre and the Manchester skyline. The rent was £7.00 per week but we never paid it and just kept stacks of reminders in the draw unopened. I studied Photography at the Poly and got stuff published in City Life magazine along with the great Kevin Cummings. ( His book on Manchester is well worth buying ). My flat mates were from the Fine Art Dept. at Medlock, Paul N.... and Steve B..... who was also in the TA with me, B Company, 4th Battalion, The Parachute Regt. based in Oldham. We caught the 82 Bus outside or flat straight up to Oldham Mumps on Fridays and returned Sundays knackered but ready for ales (Boddingtons) in the pub on the corner The Grants Arms. After a bit, \\\'Knocker\\\' North moved out of 336 Charles Barry back to Bratford and Steve left TA after getting his wings an moved to the US. Brian Turner ( bassist with The Frantic Elevators ) moved in, and Hucknall, Neil Moss and Kevin Williams used to meet up in 336 Charles Barry to rehearse, it was where The Frantic Elevators wrote, \\\'Holding Back the Years\\\' which became a big hit for Mick after he left and set up SIMPLY RED.
The Crescents were a fantastic place and I remember the Moss Side riots too in 1981. I left Hulme for Norfolk in 1984, worked on a holiday camp for a year, then got a job in Fleet Street as a press photographer
Mick Hucknall - Simply Red
Reports from locals suggest that however hard edged the neighbourhood seemed, residents appreciated the extensive creative mix that had settled in the neighbourhood. However, the problems of social and economic decline still continued. The large squatting community set up community newsletters, pirate radio stations, music and firework celebrations, and created a cultural vibrancy about the neighbourhood.
Parties
By the early mid seventies it had swiftly developed into an area of cheap housing for students and skint outsiders. By the mid-eighties it had become a squat central with dog shit and post punk idealism everywhere, full of boarded-up flats and great parties, everything covered in graffiti - from ornate murals to the anarchy symbol, to half crazed magic mushroom inspired slogans; it was a wonderful lunatic place to live.
It seemed like every band in the city had done time there, the cops left it alone and the pubs were full of drugs. It was a magnet for every crazy, every loon, every counterculture inclined freak in the north of England and beyond. By the time of acid house the structure of the area had totally decayed and it was a boom time for the party mob. Before house music became the staple of wine bars and overpriced DJs, it was the soundtrack to wild squat parties and guerrilla clubs just setting up where the fuck they liked. Hulme was perfect for this. A concrete wilderness with no control, a virtually independent freak scene run by the freaks for the freaks. No wonder it got a little crazy in there. On a Saturday night when you finally went to bed you could hear the boom-boom-boom of loads of sound systems blasting out from all over the estate. The epicentre of all the action was a club called The Kitchen. Three flats way up on the third floor of the Crescents, which had been knocked clumsily with a pick axe into one super-squat-club. The Kitchen was box flats three stories high in the middle of a concrete wilderness - the real heart of Manchester acid house culture. It may have been a ten minute walk from the Hacienda but it may as well have been a million miles away. In the Kitchen was minimum lighting. Want a bigger club? Well get a big fucking hammer and knock the walls through to next door... and that's what they did. There was a massive sound system in the front room - the downstairs kitchen had been turned into a bar selling Red Stripe, and the whole block seemed to ooze spliff. Not that it matters because every one is E'd up - gonzoid-eyed and scrunched-up faces leering into the dark haze. Careful as you wander around that staircase that sort of goes to the second floor.
The wall joining the flats together had been removed and the floor seemed to have gone as well. There were a couple light bulbs as well blinking in the murk. The music is booming acid house circa 1989, you can hear it all over the estate - it's like a beacon to every leering crazy in town and the glass strewn car park is chokka full of beat-up cars arriving through the night from all over the north of England. A couple of years in and there are already acid house veterans; crevasse faced all night people with tales to tell. Here?s one car load just back from the Blackburn all-nighters, giving the cops the slip and chasing the music all over the beaten up ex-cotton towns of mid Lancs. A whole bunch of heads have just arrived from The Hacienda, a ten minute walk down the road, cutting through the dimly lit subways and the gonzoid graffiti, and up the piss-stained flights of stairs in the feral Hulme crescents to the Kitchen party. They're looking for a 48-hour rave and are dancing around like loons, and they've not even got into the party yet. The corridor outside the flat is full of the sort of people who curse daylight, milling about buying drugs, popping E's or just doing Bez style bug eyed dancing on their own in small circles - oblivious to the music - oblivious to everything apart from the tactile pulse of the ecstasy. The cops don't come here. The cops haven't come here for years. This is a no go zone.
A party central. A concrete maze perfect for crime and even better for mental parties run under their own rules. "Leave 'em to it" sniff the local cops who prefer to stay in their concrete fortress station just up the road. The whole area is full of travellers' buses, dogs-on-a-rope types, junkies, squatters, freaks, outsiders - its also full of ex-cons, muggers and mini gangsters, but you can't have everything can you? In the summer it feels like the last stand of the party culture - a never ending chemical high in the winter- and it dies off as everyone drifts into smack and starts moaning about the weather. For a couple of glorious summers though, it was the real acid house party in Manchester, when the whole area seemed to pulse to the ghetto BPM and party like one mad shitfaced bastard. Of course it couldn't last and the bulldozers moved in in the mid nineties - these days it's all yuppie flats and wine bars full of shaven-headed thugs; the party is pretty well over even though some of the freaks remain. The days when Hulme M15 was a byword for party action are long gone. The yuppie scum have pushed up the house prices and the Hulme soundtrack is more likley to be Dido than mad crazy drug music. Welcome to the 21st century.
JOHN ROBB
More photo collections from Hulme in the 1990's
Hulme and Moss Side 1992 - 2002